Published at Friday, November 23rd 2018. by Lana Harper in End Table.
I'm gonna build a coffee table that will fit right in front of the sofa. I found a piece of wood at the home center. That's a perfect size! So I don't have to do any cutting. What I'm really excited about is that I'm gonna build it out of acrylic, and it's gonna have a nice wood top. So here's what I'll need to create this table. A 2 foot by 3-foot sheet of half-inch acrylic, fine grit, sandpaper, pre, stained wood, conditioner, wood, stain, satin, polyurethane, a drill driver, an eighth of an inch and quarter of an inch drill, bits 2 and 1/2 inch. Wood screws hinge, screw caps, spray paint a 1 by 4 piece of pine cut to 4 feet and, to top it off 20 inches by the 4-foot slab of stained grade wood. My first step is to stain my tabletop. Now, this is spruce, which is a softwood, so that means I need to condition the wood before I stain it, but didn't condition it would end up pretty splotchy. So that's a good place to start before conditioning the wood.
Everything needs to be sanded to a nice smooth, finish density and porosity and wood species varies. So some areas of a piece of wood may absorb a lot of stains where others can absorb very little, so conditioning helps bring the wood density to an equal level, resulting in a more even finish for the stain okay. So this conditioner for wood. But I wonder if it would work in my hair thing. I want to test it out, though, follow the direction of the grain when applying the conditioner after letting it sit for about 5 to 15 minutes wipe off any excess. Then you've only got about 2 hours to apply stain before the conditioners effects. Wear off and you're back to square one stain is applied the same way as the conditioner following the wood grain for a lighter tone, wipe off the stain immediately for a deeper tone. Let it set for 5 to 10 minutes before wiping off the excess to attach my acrylic to my wood table.
I'm gonna use a regular wood screw, but I don't want the exposed screw head. So when I was walking by my shutters the other day, I realized I could probably use the same hinged screw cover that they used to hang vinyl shutters as I have right here. I couldn't find it in the color that I wanted, so I'm going to jazz it up with some gold spray paint. I can't say this enough always spray and light even coats, especially when working with small parts like these hinge caps. A single heavy coat could easily flake off later and ruin our masterpiece. I'm really excited to work with acrylic I've seen a lot of cool furniture made with it, but I was always intimidated because it looked like glass and it seems like it would be hard to work with, but after some research I realized that the cast acrylic that I bought especially with it being a half-inch thick and I'm able to cut it with a regular table, saw blade and I can drill through it with regular wood bit. I really don't have anything to lose so now.
That's what I'm gonna do is drill my holes to attach it to my wood top. Each acrylic piece is 20 inches wide. I'm marking three holes on each leg, two at four inches from the outside and one in the middle, spacing them 3/8 of an inch from the top edge next drill through each mark using a quarter inch bit. Here's another good tip for drilling holes in acrylic to set it on top of a piece of scrap wood. That way we don't lose control of your drill and potentially crack your acrylic. The scrap wood will catch your drill bit. It'll. Also, save you from drilling a hole into your workbench. Even though acrylic is a pretty forgiving surface to work with a big mistake could be costly, so this step is a good time in practice, patience, and a steady hand. There are two more holes towards the bottom of each acrylic piece to drill out. These are for the brace which I'll show you in a second measure, nine inches from each side and three and a half inches from the bottom of each piece. Then drill out each mark with the same drill bit if my acrylic hadn't come with this protective layer on it, I would need to put down a piece of painters tape just to protect the acrylic from the drill bit and to keep the drill bit from watering.
Next, I'm going to drill pilot holes through the would replace the quarter-inch drill bit with an 8 inch drill bit setting everything upside downline, the top side of each acrylic piece with the tabletop and draw a mark onto the wood top through each hole Set the acrylic aside and pre-drill each mark on the wood drilling pilot holes, which prevents wood from expanding or splitting is an important and often overlooked, step. Okay. This is the moment. I've been waiting for a word to peel back the paper on the acrylic to see what it looks like and then I'll be able to assemble it to the wood tabletop. Now it's time for assembly slide each screw through a cap before attaching the acrylic to the tabletop, I'm using Torx screws, but Phillips-head wood screws would work just as well since my table is so long. I wanted to add this support beam near the bottom to help stabilize the whole thing. A crucial step in making this table last is to coat it with a protective coating like polyurethane so I'll get to that later. But first I have to see what it looks like inside my sunroom acrylic is great for small rooms because it doesn't make the room look full.
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