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Published at Saturday, November 17th 2018. by in End Table.

So now we've got two coats of flat, latex paint on this table and I've lightly sanded it with the mid-script and paper by hand, and you can take your hairdryer or I just blow all the excess sanding dust off. And then you want to take a hundred percent cotton wet rag. You can use a tacking class, but honestly, I never do. I just use a really lightly damp and cloth running out really tight and just basically like wash it make sure you get all that desktop. So I've got a real, clean, smooth surface right now that looks like it's a little bit older and beat-up, and now we're gonna make it really look like an antique piece of furniture and the way we're gonna do that is I always like to wear Disposable latex gloves because this stain is, it will not make your manicure look, look pretty. Let's just say that, and it doesn't wash off very well so it'll stain your hands. So I highly recommend you getting some latex gloves. You can get them at your home depot. Lowe's anywhere, like that hardware store box of 100, then grab some old t-shirts, whoever in the family is done with certain ones or outgrown them, and I get stains on them. Hundred percent cotton t-shirts work the best and I'm gonna go on this project. I'm using a dark walnut stain, it is an oil-based stain, but it's okay, that it goes over our latex and then we're gonna go back to the water basin.

That does work just fine. So don't panic on that things, I'm breaking the rule and using a screwdriver to open it. I can't find an opener, so not a big movement right and there's my old t-shirt. Obviously, I've used before disdain with I just let it air dry out outside where the fumes could go up into the atmosphere. Here's gonna dip your t-shirt in there and get it kind of wet and just basically do not need to be careful. You'Re, just gonna start washing it and it looks really dark and things we're gonna wash it all around it kind of puddles up in some areas and that's totally fine. You want the t-shirt a little bit, that's rated so that it pushes up into this creases and gets into all this button. So that's there. I've done a little bit of an area, I'll, take a clean, dry rag t-shirt and just wipe it back off. That's all you're gonna do gonna soak up that next set and wipe it wipe it back off. You can do this a couple coats if you want it a little darker. I end up usually doing a couple just cuz. I overlap and kind of gauge into it and, like I said you don't have to be overly careful or smaller spots, where there are grooves increases to get into you just want to kind of shove.

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Crate And Barrel End Tables
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It shoves the rag right on into it. Anything, as you saw me, do there grabbing it, not something you should do. You should watch that because it gets on the gloves. It kind of can put a pattern onto the stain that you don't want to have at the end of the world too, but you just kind of want to be careful of that. We watch it a little bit so, as you can see, it's darkening it up and giving it that antique look, that we want when you're working a big flat area like this you're doing a large table or we're just a smaller end table like I'm doing here. But there's one portion: that's pretty big. It's a good idea to try to view the whole thing at one time, so saturate it with a bunch of stains and then pull it back off, believe it or not, the little the legs and all the other things that seem a little bit more. Intricate are actually this simpler part to do so. It's the next day now and we got staining part done so if I was showing you it's kind of a messy. A part of the whole job totally been my paint clothes because today we're just gonna clearcoat. It so it's that overnight, the stains kind of heat dries to the touch right away, but it's cured a little bit better by the next day. I've cheated and put my clear coat on the same day. But if I give you the best advice, it would be to give it a day. So when you, the clear coat that I like to use the best is this probably acrylic and my reason for that is it's water-based, and so my cleanup is a lot easier. The drying time is really fast and it just seems to do a good job.

This one is a clear satin. You can get it in gloss, semi-gloss or satin, so it's just a preference choice. So this is the lowest Sheen, but it still gives a nice finish to it. I don't usually go up to the glass ones, they're, not very forgiving, but semi-gloss or with that, and both work really well. When you are clear coating you want to be really careful more so than even with paint of barely using any at all. The idea is to put on about the thinnest coat you possibly can and you're just gonna start can't see where you've gone a little bit. So I work from the top down - or I work on this section that section that section, but I always just follow a pattern and you're just gonna brush it on as thin as you possibly can and we'll give this. Probably three coats and it'll be by the time I finish doing it it'll be dry back here and you can start your next coat. I barely had any of my brush and I'm still using the same brush you'll get to a corner and it'll just a tiny bit, and you just want to have your bristles in there and get that out on this section.

I would start here to get a little bit more out of my brush straight sections and then, when you're getting here, just barely just dab it in tap and then brush it back, just always watching for where it's puddling up a little bit and just dab your Brush back down another good thing to know when you're, clear coating there's something in it called float roll which you can add to your paints to get the brush marks out or your roller marks. Something and the clear coat already has some of that in it. So you want to really be sure that you don't brush back over where you've already applied some because it starts to dry so quickly, especially the water-based type, that you want it to just go on super thin and then it will. It will naturally just spread itself with the floating roll and then just let it dry.

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