Published at Friday, November 09th 2018. by Heidi Slater in End Table.
Specifically the anatomy of an end table with a drawer. table fits together with Tenon's that are on the aprons and they're inserted into mortises, which are cut into the four legs, so the rear tenon's are beveled to allow them to clear each other inside the mortise. The rear legs, of course, have two mortises the front. Two legs, however, are different. I would like the rear legs. They have mortises that accept the apron Tenon's but on the interior. Faces of these legs are mortises that are cut to provide an opening for the drawer, the bottom drawer. Rail uses a double tenon, as you can see here, and the top drawer rail uses a dovetail. That's lapped into the top of the leg.
The dovetail rail sits proud of the top of the leg, so it can be planed down later. But don't worry if your rail dovetail looks ugly like mine, it'll be they'll be covered with the tabletop later for aesthetic purposes. I set my rails back about a sixteenth of an inch from the front of the legs. Sometimes I get a little too antsy. I want to see what the wood grain looks like so I'll wipe some mineral spirits on it. We don't worry it'll dry, very quickly and it won't cause any harm to your wood. So now let's talk about legs. I love the look of taper legs, but you can also use turned legs or taper legs with turnings on them or even straight legs, so the taper usually stops just a few inches down from the drawer rails after the table is glued up.
It's time to make custom spacers or doublers. Some people call them, so these spacers are made of secondary, would like poplar, pine poplar in this case and they're made to be flush with the legs. So these can be permanently attached with wood glue and you don't even need screws or nails for anything. The glues, plenty strong it just is a way to keep the drawers from moving side to side. Just take extra caution when gluing and clamping up to make sure they don't shift because they have a tendency to do that. You can see here after the glue is dried they're in place and now, over the top of those you put runners on the bottoms for the drawer to slide along and kickers on the tops to keep the drawer tight against the runners. So there's a variety of methods for attaching tabletops, but one way is to cut shallow mortises into the rear apron and also into the side kickers and the front rail and make wooden buttons that hold the tabletop tight while allowing seasonal, wood movement, or else you know, You're gonna have a table, that's splits. So before the table frame is glued up.
I usually chisel out the button mortises with the quarter inch chisel. You can see these buttons when they're finished, you've set it to screw in them. I'm using some traditional-looking screws and you screw it down, and it tightens the top to the aprons or on the sides. It is tightening them to the kicker's. So here's what it looks like with the table top on. I actually think that a sign of craftsmanship is to use a thicker table top and bevel the top like you see here, and I do that with a hand plane. So, let's move on to the drawers. It's pretty straightforward, there's a drawer front and drawer sides with grooves plowed into them to allow the drawer bottom and we use a half-blind dovetail to hold the drawer sides into the drawer front.
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