Published at Wednesday, November 21st 2018. by Elise Cook in End Table.
The table has great bones that we just wanted to update the color. We started by researching the process and made a list of things we needed from Home Depot. We went with 32 ounces of a classic gray stain for 777 16 ounces of a pre-stain wood conditioner for 598 32 ounces of an oil-based polyurethane. With a satin finish for 1119, we had a lot of sanding to do for this project and chose to save time by purchasing an electric sander. We went with the Rio Beaufort sheet finish standard for 29.97. We also got sandpaper in grits, 4100 and 220, each for between 2 and 3 dollars. We also purchased a small jar of white paint in a few inexpensive brushes.
The first thing we did was take apart the table, so we were able to thoroughly and every surface. Garrett did this part, but I tried to offer a helping hand. Emily watched from her play area right inside or I would step in and play as Garrett worked. When she took naps, we had her on our baby camera and we were both able to work next. We sanded every surface at the 40 grit paper to remove the previous stain and finish having a sander saved us so much time. We started with the bottom and worked our way around the edges. Standing with the grain of the wood, then, for the fun part we got to start on the top. The grain of the wood goes many different directions on this table, so we did our best to stay with the grain during each step, but it was a bit of a challenge. It was so much fun to get rid of the old finish and see the pretty raw oak underneath after the top piece was done. We started in on all the legs with the 40 grit paper.
After we finished with the 40 grit, we repeated the entire process with the 100 grit paper when we were finally done sanding, which took quite a long time. Garrett put the table back together. we sanded the top and around the edges with the 220 grit paper to really finish it off. Then we were ready for our pre-stained wood conditioner after thoroughly wiping all the sanding dust away. We applied a thin layer of the wood conditioner to every surface of the table and let it sit for about 15 minutes. We wiped off any excess with a clean cloth and then we were ready to start staining trying our best to stay with the grain of the wood. We applied our first coat of gray stain with only one KO. A lot of the woods still show through. So we chose to also apply a second coat about six hours later after the second coat was completely dry. We decided we were happy with the color.
There were still a couple slots that the wood showed through, but we thought that would look cool once we did the whitewash for the whitewash I mixed 1/4, a cup of white paint with two cups of water. Depending on how dramatic you want the whitewash, you can adjust the ratio of water to paint working section by section you apply your water and paint mixture to the surface and then wipe it off the longer you let it sit, the more white you will get. I wiped fairly quickly, so our whitewash was more on the subtle side, like with the other steps you want to apply and wipe with the grain of the wood, which was definitely a challenge on the top of this table. You can keep manipulating how it looks during the wiping stage until it looks the way you want. I got a corner of the towel wet and use that to wipe any areas that ended up. Looking too white, it took a while to get it right, but once we were done, we were very happy with how it turned out even better than I expected. The final step is a polyurethane finish. It is really important to be patient during this last step, which is really hard. If you do too thick of layers or don't let them dry properly, your table will end up feeling very tacky and sticky, which of course, you don't want Garrett applied, super thin layers and followed all the instructions on the can. This is the finished table and I am so happy with how it turned out.
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