Published at Thursday, November 15th 2018. by Deborah Dickerson in End Table.
Mid-century modern end table on modern builds. So I started by going to home depot and getting a 2 foot by 4 foot piece of 3/4 inch MDF and don't worry all the supplies that you're going to need are going to be in my written article, and my first cut was to rip it to 18 inches wide and out of that big piece, I'm cutting to 21 inch pieces leaving over a 6 inch piece. That's gonna be the back. Now, there's a somewhat advanced cut and if you're not comfortable with it remember, you can always use a circular saw and without moving my fence. I cut two more 21-inch pieces this time out of the small 6-inch piece. Next, I need to be able to make my back fit, so I use 2 pieces of MDF to represent the sides of the box that way the back can fit in and now that all my cuts were done. All I had to do was glue and Brad nail it together, and this thing went together super easy because since I cut everything on the table saw everything was really square and fit perfectly. This was also my first time getting to use my airstrike brad nailer from Ryobi, which was super cool because I never got tangled up in a court since it's battery-powered next, I made sure and used wood filler on all of my brad nail holes as well as on all the seams between the board's, then I used three coats of white primer. I ended up using two cans of primer and one can of spray paint with all my primer dry.
I cut all of my pieces for my drawer to length. Then I ran them through the table saw these are left over 1 by sixes from my headboard. Next, I cut a dado into my two sides. Pieces didn't know. What's going to hold the 1/8 inch plywood for the bottom of the drawer? Now I had the idea to do a sort of hidden dado to where it's not on the front and back piece just the sides. I haven't really ever seen. Anyone do this, but I thought it was a mean idea and I'm holding the back piece on with red nails, but I'm just gluing the drawer face on and clamping it down. Don't worry. It's plenty, strong trust me. I made sure and cut two spacers one for the bottom and one for the front of the drawer slides that way. I knew that everything was consistent now with the drawer resting on the bottom of the box.
I put as many playing cards in the top as I could, and then I knew that if I cut the deck in half and put half of those on the bottom half on the top, it would be even spacing. Then I use the same spacers as well as a 1 by 6 scrap to make sure that the fascia board lined up with the front of the box after I scented the drawer to 220 grit, I put two coats of a dark walnut danish oil on the face as well as on my leg next, I needed to put a pull on the drawer face and the hardware company Brousseau was nice enough to send me one of their awesome brass poles. So the guys Abruzzo asked me if I wanted to check out some of their hardware and I said definitely - and I've got to say this stuff is really nice, not to mention it's all made in the USA. So I'm gonna leave a link in the description. So you can go and check out Bruce's website and keep your eye out because I think I'm gonna have a project in the future too.
Next, I painted the metal feet on the bottom of the legs gold to match the hardware, and then I could install the hardware for the legs. I wanted to install the legs, though, until I sanded and painted the box with two coats of a semi-gloss white. It came out really really nice and finally, with all that done, all I had to do was assemble it and I've got to say this thing is beautiful, so I am really digging this project. It's a super classic mid-century design, but I think the gold on the legs and the brass hardware really give it a modern chic, updated look. So this thing came out awesome. Now there are a couple things I want to go through before you build it first off. I use 12-inch legs for most people. This is going to be too short.
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