Published at Monday, November 19th 2018. by Katheryn Kaufman in End Table.
Making this patio end table, let's get to work for this project, we'll be using one by six wood and two by two wood. I chose to work with the design because it's inexpensive and easy on the blade which my one by six. I cut two lengths at 17 inches and two lengths at eighteen and a half inches I'll, be joining the 18 and a half inch boards to the 17 inch boards tracing off the edge of the 18 half-inch boards will give me a good idea where the boards Will line up and allow me to Center the screws they should be pre-drilled and counterbored before driving in actuality. I only needed to pre-drill one set of screws and I could use those as a template to pre-drill the other holes. Counterboring will allow us to sink our screws and deep and cover them with wood plugs. In the end, this should be done on the most attractive side of the wood.
A corner clamp will hold the boards at right angles to each other, making it easier to get a right angle. Joint pre, drilling into the end grain of the seventeen-inch board is essential. To avoid splitting, I should have kept to the corner clamp on the top. So that way, the board's can sit flush against the table to utilize the flat surface to help them join with the apron joined together. I can now cut out the pieces for the tabletops I'll be doing this with one by six and I'll need to cut out four pieces that are 22 and a half inches long. These boards should be arranged in a line with their tabletop side facing upward place. The apron on top of it and make sure it is equal distances from each edge once centered, we could trace out the apron onto the tabletop, so we'll know where the edges are. This will help us locate the holes that we should drill for the screws the interior tabletop boards will get two screws on each side.
The exterior tabletop boards will receive a screw on each side and one in the middle, I'm using number eight Internet quarter, screws which are a perfect length for this project when joining the tabletop to the apron make sure these boards are pressed together as tightly as possible To avoid unsightly gaps, I decided to do some light sanding to remove my pencil marks. However, the sanding could be safer later as much as I tried to create a nice smooth edge surface for where the boards were joined together, I needed to run it over. The table saw to really clean it up. It's now time to make the table legs. So the table legs you're going to want some two by twos I found it was less expensive to purchase two by threes and cut them down to size on the table, saw a good length for the legs is 23 and a quarter inch. A quick passed. My quarter inch Roundover on the fresh cut edges made the legs uniform on all four sides.
This was easily done with a handheld router. As I have not yet made my router table, I used a pair of clamps to hold each leg still as I routed an edge at a time, did a quick once-over with a chamfer bit on my router to knock down some of the sharper edges and especially To get around the table edge, I also utilized it to quickly knock down the corners it's time to attach the table legs and to do that we will utilize clamps to hold them into place while we check their level. Even though I use a stop block on my radial arm saw to make sure that all of my table legs were identical, turned out, one of them was not sitting as well as it should when all legs are positioned to satisfaction, pre-drill, counterbore and drive those screws In make sure they will not contact the screws that are used to hold the apron together. Utilize wood plugs to cover all the screws and sand the project down to a nice 220 grit. I enjoyed doing this project. I have left mine on finished at this time. You can apply a nice stain, polyurethane or paint to finish.
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