Published at Saturday, November 24th 2018. by Katheryn Kaufman in End Table.
Make a mid-century modern side table or on a table with three legs. The purpose of this project was to make a fairly simple DIY project. That seems a lot more complex. Then it really is to build. I used plywood for the main table and pine for the legs I started by cutting all the pieces to size on my table saw, in fact, I used my table saw for all the cuts in this project. First, I needed to cut larger plywood pieces, so I used the table saw fence for that purpose. This large plywood board was really heavy and was a bit difficult to handle when making the first cuts, then I made all the crosscuts with my new crosscut sled. It is one of the most useful accessories I have in my workshop. All the cuts that I made were repeated and the stop block is a must-have to make that possible. Most of the pieces were 50 centimeters long, which is more than my sled can handle, and I wasn't able to use the original stop block for those cuts. So I attached the fence at the left edge of the table and clamped the scrap wood on it. That will serve as a stop block itself.
This way I could cross cut longer pieces of wood. The rest of the repeated cuts I made using the original stop block, which I made for my slip. You can check the videos on how I build the crosscut sled and the fence I'll put a link to them in the video description below for the legs. I use the two meters long pine strip. I cut it into three pieces and fastened all those pieces together with the tape in order to cut them all to the same length. I wanted to get the maximum length for the legs out of that single strip, so I cut just as little of them as possible. If you are interested in making this exact table, you can find all the measurements in my written article with all the details included so be sure to check that out. The link is in the description below once I'm done the cutting. I can send all the pieces with my orbital sander using 220 grit sandpaper to make them nice and smooth. Now everything is sanded and ready to be assembled. There are so many ways to put wood together, but for this project,t I'm using only wood, glue, and dowels. It is very clean and fast way to join everything together and in my opinion, these joints are going to be plenty strong. Now I'm making the frame you can notice that I used this toweling jig to drill all the holes in this project. This is a very useful jig that will help you drill perfectly straight holes for dowels without a drill press.
First, I marked all the points where I will insert the dowels and drill all the holes into both sides of the frame. Then I insert the dowels without forcing them too much into the holes. I did this because the dowels, along with the doweling jig, will help me drill holes into the top and the bottom of the frame exactly in the same position as you can see here, I made four holes on one side of the frame because there I'll have A data for one of the legs, so I wanted to make a stronger bond there. This was my approach and worked great for me. If you have any other suggestions on how to join with dowels leave them in the comments below all the holes are made. So I can assemble the frame. I apply the generous amount of wood glue on one side. Then I insert the dowels in each hole with a mallet after that I attached the bottom at a 90-degree angle and taped with a rubber mallet until both pieces touch. Each other making a strong connection. I use a scrap of wood to tap with the mallet so that I don't damage the surface. Everything is squared, so I can secure the frame with a bunch of claims and leave it to dry out. The trickiest part of this project is making data for the legs, because actual, ly I need to make three degas at the same time, for each leg. I don't have an appropriate router bit or a dado blade on my table saw, and in order to avoid any mistake, I was thinking a lot before making those data the most suitable way was to cut them on. My table saw with the regular blade so on the top of the table. I marked the three points where I need to make.
The data claimed it, along with the frame onto the slit, set my blade at around 25 millimeters height and started cutting. This was a very slow process, because, after each cut, I needed to move the frame just a little and secure it with clamps. Until I get three centimeters wide data, this means that I moved the frame and claimed it back to the sled around 50 times anyway. It was worth the time and effort the data were a tight fit for the legs, so I successfully finished this step. The legs are most important here because they will support the table, and this means I need to be careful and make the holes for the dowels on the same distance on each leg. I secure them together, measured and marked all the points making sure they're all at the same distance after death, I drilled the holes with two doweling jigs. I did the same with the plywood pieces, but here I used more claims to keep the jig in place. Now that I have drilled all the holes, I can attach the legs to the table and it would mean that I'm done with the assembly. I apply the wood glue, inserted the dowels and carefully attach the legs. Each leg perfectly matches the data, which is great. I tip them with the rubber mallet and clamp them in place.
Then I leave them to dry out. Once everything is dry, I can fill the gaps into the plywood edges with some wood filler. I wanted to avoid any gaps in the table when I apply paint. Okay, now I can add some finish to the table. I started with the legs and stained them with a palace under stain before staining, I covered the parts of the table that touch the legs, with a masking tape to protect them from the stain. This stain is really nice. It would help me achieve a great contrast with the body of the table, which I decided to paint white ice into the plywood because previously I apply the wood filler and I wanted to make it nice and smooth before painting. And this time I covered the legs with a masking tape. To make sure I don't make a mess with the paint. Then I applied white oil-based primer on the body of the table and use the brush for the corners that are hard to reach and the ruler for the flat surfaces. I left it to dry overnight once it is completely dry. I can do a quick send with a hundred and twenty grit sandpaper. Then I can move on to the paint I decided to go with a white oil-based paint because it perfectly matches the stain with this done. My mid-century modern side table is complete.
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